11 Common Types of Yarn Packaging Every Knitter & Crocheter Should Know

When following foreign knitting or crochet patterns, you’ll often see terms like ball, cake, skein…

They all refer to yarn packaging, but each type differs in how the yarn is wound and how the strand is pulled, which can directly affect your crafting experience.

In the images below, I’ve listed each type in detail.

If we group them by shared characteristics, they can be simplified into the following main categories 👇

👉 Yarn wound into a round shape, ready to use
Includes:
• Regular ball
• Donut ball
• Center-pull ball
• Cake
✔️ Pros: easy to use, less tangling (especially center-pull types)

👉 Yarn packaged for sale, can be pulled from the outside or the center
Includes:
• Skein
• Pull skein (center-pull skein)

✔️ Pros: neat, tidy, and the most common form in yarn shops


👉 Yarn in a large loop, not wound
Includes:
• Hank
• Twisted hank
• Folded hank

⚠️ Note: Always wind into a ball or cake before using to avoid tangling

👉 Yarn wound on a cone-shaped core
• Commonly used for machine knitting or large projects

• Yarn wound into a traditional round shape
• Can be pulled from the outside
• May roll around if not kept in a basket or container


• A ball of yarn with a hole in the center, shaped like a donut
• Usually allows center-pull
• Less likely to tangle than a regular ball

•  Yarn wound by a machine into a flat, cake-like shape
•  Typically center-pull
•  Very popular because it’s neat and less prone to tangling

•  Tightly wound ball with a strand that pulls from the center
•  Convenient to use and doesn’t roll around while working
•  Commonly seen in yarn wound from a hank


• Yarn arranged in a large loop, not wound into a ball
• Not ready to use; must be wound before knitting or crocheting
• Commonly found in hand-dyed yarn

•  A hank twisted into a compact form for selling
•  Still a hank at its core → needs to be wound before use

•  A hank folded and secured with a label
•  Often seen in industrial or commercial yarn brands
•  Also needs to be wound before use

•  Yarn wound onto a cone-shaped core
•  Ideal for machine knitting or large projects
•  Very smooth yarn flow with minimal tangling


• A common yarn packaging form in yarn shops
• Usually pulled from the outside
• The term “skein” is sometimes used as a general term for different yarn forms

• A skein with a center-pull strand
• Convenient and tidy to work with
• Pulling the wrong end may cause tangling

• Yarn that has become tangled or knotted
• Often caused by pulling the wrong strand or using an unwound hank

Hope this post helps you better recognize different yarn types and choose the right one for your projects 🧵

If you find it helpful, don’t forget to save it or share it with your fellow knitters and crocheters 💛

How to pick up (fix) dropped Knit, Purl & Garter Stitches

Simple tip for leaving a long tail to cast on many stitches

Knitting is a wonderful hobby that can produce beautiful and cozy items for yourself or your loved ones. But sometimes, you may run out of yarn in the middle of a project, or you may want to switch to a different color or texture. How do you join new yarn without creating unsightly knots or loose ends? 

In this post, I will show you five quick and easy ways to join new yarn in knitting, using invisible and magic knots. These methods will help you create smooth and seamless transitions between yarns, and save you time and hassle in weaving in ends, and it will make your knitting look more professional and neat.

Ready to learn how to join new yarn in knitting like a pro? Let's get started!

I have used two colours for this tutorial.

Step 1: You will start with two ends of yarn – one will be the working yarn you’ve just come to the end of and the other your new yarn you wish to join. 

Step 2: Wrap your old yarn around the new yarn and tie a knot.

Step 3:  Pull the knot as tight as you can. 

Step 4:  Next we will repeat the process with the other yarn tail, wrap your new yarn around the old yarn and tie a knot Pull both knots tight. 

Step 5:  Pull either end of the yarn  so the two knots meet. 

Step 6:  Pull to make sure both are tied tightly, then cut off the ends as close to the knot as possible.

Step 1: You take new yarn on the right side and place it cross over the old yarn on the left side and tie.

Step 2: Make sure both of your ends are facing upwards again. 

Step 3: Now we will take the yarn on the left side ad place it cross over the yarn on the right side, and create another tie. Pull all ends of yarn to tighten your knot as much as possiple . 

Step 4: Cut off the ends as close to the knot.

Step 1: Pinch the new and old yarn 1 inch from the ends (line up the ends so that they are even). Then, pinch the ends between thumb and forefinger to hold them in place.

Step 2: Wrap the new yarn around your thumb 2 times. Make sure that the yarn goes in between your forefinger and thumb as well, but on the outside of the pinched yarn ends. 

Step 3: Bring the new yarn so it goes between your thumb and the 2 ends of yarn. Make sure to keep pinching the ends of the yarn as you do this! 

Step 4: Tuck the ends of the yarn down towards your thumb. Push the ends down so that they are completely folded over. 

Step 5: Pull gently on the new yarn and allow the loops to slip off your thumb until the loops into a knot.

Step 1: Thread the yarn on a sharp sewing needle.

Step 2: Fold the yarn over and use the sewing needle to go in between the fibers of the yarn  (follow the yarn for around 2-3 inches). Don't worry if things bunch up a bit and the plies seem to come undone a bit.

Step 3: Pull the needle through, straighten things out a bit but don't pull tight. 

Step 4: Thread the other yarn on sewing needle, pull it through the loop of the first yarn and to go in between the fibers of the same yarn.

Step 6: Pick up either end and give it a good tug. This should bring the join closer together and close the loops in the center.

Step 7: Straighten out the join and trim away the tails on either side.

Don't worry if your join looks a bit wonky before you pull things tight. That's quite normal and you can smooth things out in the last step. 

Step 1: This technique works well with plied yarn (yarn made from multiple strands). It creates a seamless join but takes a bit of practice.

Step 2: Thread the old yarn on a sewing needle. 

Step 3: Use the sewing needle to go in between the plies of the new yarn to join the two ends together. (follow the yarn for around 3-4 inches).

Step 4: Pull the needle through, straighten things out a bit but don't pull tight.

Step 5: Thread the new yarn on sewing needle, pull it through between the plies of the old yarn. 

Step 6: Straighten out the join and trim away the tails on either side.

In conclusion, joining a new ball of yarn doesn't have to be a hassle. Each of these methods has its place, depending on the type of yarn and the project at hand. It can be helpful to view a video tutorial if you’re not quite getting the hang of these techniques. Try them out, find your favorites, and never let a small ball of yarn disrupt your creative flow again. Happy crafting!

I hope you enjoyed this video tutorial and learned something new. 



 If you decide to make this pattern or any my patterns, please share your photos of your finished toys with me on Instagram using the hashtag #Cheryx.Knitadream. I can't wait to see your creations!

10 WAYS TO HIDE THE REMAINING THREADS IN KNITTING

How to cast off/ bind off the last stitch in knitting and make it look neater (easy method)

How to embroider the sleepy eyes (for knitting or crochet doll/toy)

5 quick and easy ways to join new yarn in knitting (magic and invisible knots) 

Made from the fleece of sheep and one of the most popular yarns. Very warm, breathable and durable, however it can be­­ slightly itchy  and prone to pilling over time. 

There are many types of sheep, so we have many different types of wool: 

- Merino wool is considered the finest of the fine breeds, it's softness, elasticitsy and warmth. 

- Lamb’s wool: Comes from a young lamb’s first shearing. 

- Pure new wool/virgin wool: Wool that’s made directly from animal fleece and not recycled from existing wool garments.

 - Shetland wool: Made from the small and hardy native sheep of Scotl­­and’s Shetland Islands.

 - Washable wool: Treated chemically or electronically to destroy the outer fuzzy layer of fibers.

Warm and drapey are some of the biggest characteristics of Alpaca ,so this type of yarn is best for small winter projects. It is light in weight, soft to the touch, water-resistant and water repellen, less elastic than wool.

This dense fiber is hypoallergenic, making it a good option for those with sensitive skin, particularly for baby knitwear. 

 The softest and fluffiest yarn. It comes from goats. Because of its superior insulation, it is well-suited for winter cardigans and accessories.

Cotton is a plant-based fiber, it is light and breathable, so it's a popular fiber for the summer season.

The biggest drawbacks of cotton is that is inelastic and it is a rather rigid yarn. To fix this, find a blend with wool.

Acrylic yarn is a man-made fiber. It's cheap and the best choice for beginner knitters.




It's durable, lightweight and easy to clean, you can use the washing machine to clean it without shrinking or shedding. If you are planning on knitting something you know you have to wash regularly, this is the yarn to go for, such as sweaters, linings, gloves, furnishings, baby garments and blankets.




However, once you've gotten a better hand on knitting, its best to move onto the natural fibers.

Angora wool or Angora fiber refers to the downy coat produced by the Angora rabbit. While their names are similar, Angora fiber is distinct from mohair, which comes from the Angora goat.

 




 It is much warmer, soft, thin and lighter than wool so this yarn is a favorite for cowls, hats, mittens and scarves.

The Yarn Weights Chart is an infographic with everything you need to know about knitting needles, yarn types, and projects. 

A Guide to Knitting Yarn

If you want to learn to knit, you must have a knitting needle.

Let's start with needle sizes & length.

You can find out what size knitting needles and gauge you will need to achieve with a specific yarn by looking at the product details on a yarn page or by simply looking on the label of a skein of yarn.

Long or short. The type of project determines the length of your needle. Most patterns have suggestions for the length.

 




Most straight needles are 10-16″ (25-40 cm) long. Circular needles range enormously and can be as short as 22cm (8½in) or as long as 150cm (60in), however the most commonly used lengths are 40, 60 or 80cm (16, 24, or 32in)

 




If you want to knit blanket or sweater needs a longer needle. Small, flat projects can be worked on any needle length. Small ones like socks need a short circular needle or double-pointed needles.

Straight needles  come in sets of two needle, and each has a point at one end and a knob or stopper at the other, they are straightforward and easy to use.

Double-Pointed Needles also known as DPNs. These shorter straight needles have points at both ends and usually come in sets of four to six needles. 

You can use them for knitting socks, mittens, gloves, knitted toy.

When working on a large knitting project in the round, use circular needles. These needles have a flexible cord that connects them so they are almost like one long knitting needle.




Some knitters love this type of knitting needle because there's little chance they'll come apart andthey allow you to make bags and sweaters without seams (for knitting hats and socks)

They have a firm tip and a flexible cord. Interchangeable knitting needles have a lot more functionality than fixed circulars, the pieces separate so you can change out the needle sizes and cord lengths. You can also connect needles to cords and attach caps at the ends so you can use them like straight needles.




Having this flexibility is incredibly helpful for most knitting projects

These needles hold stitches when forming knitted cables.This is a handy tool for keeping active stitches safe while moving them around.

Material choice really comes down to personal preference. However, here are a few general guidelines for commonly used knitting needles.

Bamboo, birch, ebony, and rosewood are very common. Bamboo knitting needles are usually rather inexpensive as well. 

Wooden needles are probably the best choice for knitting beginners . They are lightweight, smooth, moderate friction but break easily, damaged surface can easily pull threads. 

Many knitters like metal needles as they are durable, smooth and fast. They often crafted out of aluminum, stainless steel, brass, or nickel plated.

Plastic knitting needles are lightweight, smooth, and flexible. making them a popular choice. They are also great for beginners as they are the most lightweight and have a smoothness comparable to wooden knitting needles.

Types of plastic include normal grey plastic and acrylic.

This material is harder to find and less commonly used. It's beautiful

, smooth,  stitches don’t slide off accidentally. But it can breakable and not too durable.

 

A Guide to Knitting Needle

If you're a beginning knitter wondering where to start, you've come to the right place.

Ready to start knitting?  Some things you'll need to get started:

The size of a needle is described first by its diameter and secondly by its length. 

Needles are divided into two basic categories: straight or circular. Straight needles allow the knitter to work back and forth, producing flat pieces, circular needles allow the knitter to work in a continuous round, producing tubular pieces.







They are further categorized by use as single-pointed, double-pointed, interchangeable, and cable types. 

There are many different types of knitting needle materials such as metal, wood, bamboo, or plastic, acrylic. This is not to say that these are the only types of knitting needles out there. Simply, these are the most common knitting needle materials used today.

Yarn is a textile commonly made of either animal-based fibers (sheep's wool, mohair, angora), plant-based fibers (cotton, hemp, silk), or synthetic fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon). These interlocked fibers (referred to as plies) are spun together into thicker strands. 

The number of plies (for example, a single-ply yarn or two-ply yarn) will affect the drape, stitch definition, and general feel of the yarn.  

 Choose a yarn that is suitable for your project. Refer to the ball band (or label) which states the fiber content, weight, suggested needle size, gauge, and dye-lot number. To ensure that all your yarn for a project is exactly the same color, buy it all at once and check that the dye-lot numbers match.  

You’ll need a pair of scissors to cut the yarn when you finish your project or want to switch to switch colors.

A row counter is a tally counter for counting rows worked, for counting stitch pattern repetitions, or for counting increases or decreases of the number of stitches in consecutive rows.

A tapestry needle is a hand-sewing needle that is useful to knitters, it is a large sewing needle, with an eye big enough to accommodate bulky yarn.

Some knitters opt for the kind seamstresses use and others use ones commonly found in a knitting materials kit.



A measuring tape is particularly important if you’re knitting a scarf, because you will need to measure your work to determine when it has become long enough to bind off or especially when making pairs of things, like mittens or sleeves.

While these rings might look small, they’re a pretty mighty tool. These small, colorful rings slip on your needles to mark particular points in your pattern, they can help you keep your place, nail a complicated stitch, remember to swap out colors and more.

A stitch holder is like a large safety pin. When a pattern calls for you to set some stitches aside to come back to later, you simply slip those stitches onto a holder. We will knit those stitches later.

It may seem counterintuitive to suggest buying crochet hooks for a knitting starter, but crochet hooks are not just for crochet! You can use them for many different tasks, from picking up dropped stitches to making a provisional cast-on.

When it comes to essential knitting tools, point protectors perform two important functions, also commonly called a "stopper," point protectors are small rubber caps that cover the pointed ends of your needles to ward against dings, and scratches. Another benefit: They prevent stitches from slipping off the needle, which is helpful when you're knitting on the go.



And, they can also be used to turn a double-point needle into a straight needle.

Knitting needles come in many different sizes.  The sizes printed somewhere on the needles, but these printings often rub off over the years.



If you unsure of a needle's size,  slip it into each of the holes until you find the best fit.

Discover the 11 essential tools for beginning knitters — from needles and yarn to stitch markers and row counters. Start your knitting journey with confidence!